The Next Printing Press
Today’s Magazine Publishers have to be Sales, Content, and Technology Organizations to Survive
By Chris O’Hara
I am sitting at the airport bar in Dallas, trying to get back to 2010. After attending the Dallas Ad League’s Magazine Day event at the Fairmont Hotel, I feel as though I journeyed to 1995 and back again. Not that I have anything against attractive, skirt-suited southwestern sales directors and their handsome, eminently polite male counterparts. Nor do I have contempt for the magazine industry in general, as many “new media” bloggers seem to. I came from a magazine background, and love magazines. But the atmosphere was decidedly 1999: folding tables stuffed with magazines, sharply dressed sales reps talking about “custom opportunities” and “special sections,” and not a computer display in sight. The lunch itself promised a lively panel discussion that would inform the 200+ attendees what the “digital future” of magazines would be, but the forum was a panel discussion, bookended by two gigantic monitors featuring a single, non-interactive PowerPoint title slide for most of the two hours.
A large portion of the day’s panel discussion was dedicated to the new, $90 million “magazines” campaign, designed to make advertisers feel better about spending money in their products (the “interactive” portion of the event featured the “magazines” video where Jann Wenner (the former editor and publisher of Rolling Stone) and Catherine Black (President of Hearst) get all feisty about audience engagement). Did you know that, during the 12-year lifespan of Google, magazine readership increased by 10%? Or, that “ad recall” has increased by 13% over the last five years? Neither did I, which is why this campaign is so important. Despite the bloodletting of the past several years, magazines remain a highly relevant part of the media landscape. “Magazines have enduring values for readers and advertisers that have gotten a little neglected and misunderstood in the era of Internet instant buzz and chatter,” said Jann Wenner, chairman, Wenner Media. “Magazines are beloved and powerful in people’s lives for very good reasons that need to be remembered and reinforced. That’s what this campaign is about.” Although, I am not sure how one can “misunderstand” a magazine, Wenner’s point is well taken.
The panelists (David Carey of Condé Nast, Michael Clinton of Hearst, and Stephanie George of Time) all did an admirable job of toeing the line. That being said, anytime you see those three so buddy-buddy on stage, you better watch out. Obviously, this new industry love-fest has a lot more to do with survival than pure affection. If their consortium can produce more than a print advertising campaign (irony alert! The best concept these guys could come up with to save their industry was a print ad campaign!), they might actually be dangerous.
The takeaway? These companies were training their employees for the digital age (“some are really adapting, and some are struggling with making the transition,” according to George). They are doing oodles of “custom media” for their advertisers—and even acting like agencies for many of their clients (something that I am sure the WPPs and Omnicoms of the world are enjoying), according to Clinton. And all of them are “building apps.” Lots and lots of apps.
Sounds good.
I wondered, however, when these guys all decided they didn’t want anything to do with the platform itself. The “power of the press” was always based on the fact that the average Joe didn’t have much of a voice, because he couldn’t afford a multi-million dollar printing press. Sure, he could shout from the rooftops and rabble-rouse in the local coffee shop, but that was basically it. The major publishers controlled the loudspeaker, and they could decide to what purpose they would drive their message (start a war, make scads of cash, anoint a president, etc.). Sure, print’s voice got diluted with the emergence of radio and television, but print journalism (the real stuff) still drove the message and shaped the conversation. Anyway, there is really no need to dig up this old conversation; we all know how the internet gave everyone their own printing press (blog), television station (YouTube account), and the means to capture “stories” as a “citizen journalist” (mobile phone).
When did the publishers decide to give up their platform? Why aren’t they leveraging everything they have to standardize the content creation business, and building the next great platform? It’s because they were focused on being sales organizations, rather than content organizations, or even technology organizations. At a certain point, a long time ago, things got mighty comfortable in publishing land. The industry that created the ability to print a trillion newspapers every night and get them into America’s driveways by 5AM, got fat and happy on loads of advertising money, and they started building immense sales organizations, and dedicated all of their creativity and emotion to increasing readership, ad pages, and revenue. In the meantime, the very platform that they were building this organization on top of was thinning out, and starting to teeter, as disruptive technologies ate away at the foundations.
The magazine business is still a very powerful beast, though. Some 300,000,000 magazines were sold last year, and they generated $19.45 billion in advertising revenue, according to the Publishers Information Bureau. As our panelists pointed out, the average newsstand consumer still just about trips over themselves to shell out $4 to read the latest about Lady Gaga and poor, bamboozled Sandra Bullock, so magazines aren’t exactly dead yet. They still control some very powerful content, and they are starting to get themselves in a position to undo some of the damage they inflicted upon themselves (it should be noted that all of the panelists issued very refreshing mea culpas when it came to the ginormous mistake of making all of their online content free, and depending on banner advertising revenue to fill the gap. Needless to say, that gap only grew wider over the last 15 years, creating the monstrous chasm that exists today). To fill it, these magazine publishers are looking at the iPad as the greatest thing since the PDF replaced film in their production departments.
Early iterations of online magazine publishing “solutions” tried to bring the advertiser value by taking that PDF and putting in online, where readers could see full-page ads, and enjoy the beautiful layouts that make print so special. Later iterations—featuring in-page video, ad “hotspots” with enhanced product information, and other interactive features—also failed, due to the nature of the engagement. When a reader goes to the web, he is often looking for “quick bites” of content, not necessarily the longer, more relaxed, engagements that he ordinarily sets aside for a magazine reading session. The iPad and other smart mobile devices promise a reader that wants an interactive experience, but is more engaged and willing to spend time with content. Maybe he is being held captive by a plane, train, car ride, or (dare I say it) boring business luncheon. The iPad user expects interactivity, and something more than just printed content, and he is willing to pay for it.
The last part of that sentence is really what today’s Ad League Luncheon was really all about. Magazines are the king of the opt-in relationship. People pay good money to get magazine subscriptions, and advertisers know that they are reaching people who are truly engaged with that content. That’s the only kind of validation that’s truly important, and it’s so much more reassuring to an advertiser than a Quantcast or ComScore data pull. People have limited time, and limited money. As an advertiser, I know that I will at least have a chance to “have a conversation” with the reader that has plunked down his hard-earned money to spend some quality time with the content my ad is alongside. That translates to the web, when I start being able to charge for subscriptions—and ultimately lifts CPMs (called WSJ.com lately)? And it translates to high CPMs for whatever advertising we will start to find on iPads and other mobile devices where consumers are willing to pay for applications.
For today’s print publishers to truly recapture the ongoing attention of the modern advertiser, and stay relevant in the post-print era of modern advertising, the prescription is obvious, although difficult:
n Make it Exclusive: What sets the price for any product is its supply vs. its demand, whether it’s coffee, hotel rooms, or content. New York City Mayor and media tycoon Michael Bloomberg didn’t get rich because he had the best content. He got rich because he has access to proprietary content that no one else had. The successful content organization has to be able to have the research, stories, and data that no one else has—or present that content in a format that nobody else can match. Whether you are the National Enquirer buying off Perkins’ waitresses to get the Tiger Woods scoop, or you are a B2B publisher with a trade magazine that rounds up the day’s prices for pork bellies on the Chicago Mercantile Exchange, you have to lead with content that people can’t find anywhere else easily. The nature of the content always defines the value of the audience, and content companies always win when they can charge enough to break even on the content production, and make the advertising the gravy on top.
n Make it Expensive: It’s funny how people will plunk down good money for a magazine subscription, but hesitate to pay even a few dollars a month for that same content online. A magazine is an object of beauty, with some heft, and (depending on the title), conveying a certain image. Like it or not, reading the New Yorker in an airport lounge says something about you—just as digging into an issue of ESPN Magazine, or the Economist. Magazines are consumer products, and sold like them, their covers designed to spur us to pay a good amount of money to grab them off the shelf. If I am an advertiser, shouldn’t I expect a reader to be willing to pay $30 a year for all the content you produce? Shouldn’t I demand evidence that your publication is more valuable than the thousands of other free content sources available in your vertical? I think some magazine publishers are finding out that their content isn’t quite as valuable or differentiated as they would like to think. Maybe, after underpaying writers, editors, designers, and developers for decades on end, the reason many hot content producers set off on their own is because they see the opportunity to get paid higher prices for their content (or at least, be able to own it outright). The modern magazine publisher has to get back to producing exclusive, expensive content that readers are willing to pay a premium for.
n Make it Interactive: About 4 years ago, I was working for Nielsen and getting pitched by a highly progressive interactive company that was taking magazine reading to the next, interactive level. They had an online magazine that blended social media, video, in-page advertising, and a great package of analytics to tie it all together. You could literally look at a typical magazine fashion shoot, mouse over the various products within the photo, and get instant product information, pricing, and find out where to buy the object(s) of desire. Now, add in location-based marketing with mobile devices, and you have a whole new, highly relevant type of interactivity that today’s publisher can leverage. The fact that most magazine websites are still HTML-based and feature standard banner units speaks volumes. The problem wasn’t the concept or pricing of some of the great online magazine ideas. The problem was that AOL (and other online players) defined the platform before the best content producers could. The magazine industry came up with the 468×60 banner (Hotwired.com), but AT&T had to buy into it to create the standard. Now, it seems as though the advertisers have more say in the process of establishing advertising standards than the publishers. Chris Schembri, VP of Media Services from AT&T (the sole advertiser on the panel) made it clear that marketers were looking for leadership from their publishing partners around creating the digital content standards of tomorrow. Advertisers like Schembri need their publishing partners to create new standards that leverage technology to make their advertising more relevant to today’s audiences. Publishers cannot let their advertisers (or online portals, platforms, and ad networks) tell them what they can sell.
n Own the Platform: The biggest challenge facing today’s magazine and newspaper publishers is getting back control over the interactive delivery platform itself. Look how the music industry lost control of their delivery system, and the billions of dollars in lost revenue that engendered. Once technology made it possible to remove a song from a CD and share it with hundreds of people for free, the music industry was sunk. Like publishers today, they found themselves looking to Apple to build a modern platform that would once again value their content. They are finding a rough peace with the 99 cents a song deal they got from Steve Jobs. If the iPads, Kindles, and Sony Readers of the world end up creating the standard for published content, the content owners will have once again been commoditized by technology players and lack control of their own destiny. Publishers need to think about designing the next printing press, rather than have Apple do it for them.
All of this hyperbole aside, I don’t think magazine publishers will ever go away. Over the years, printed magazines, newspapers, and books will be a great luxury. People who would rather read a solid copy of Moby Dick, or fold the Wall Street Journal on the train, or flip through Architectural Digest will be afforded the opportunity to do so—at a premium price. The future for these content manufacturers, however, will be around taking back ownership of the delivery mechanism and setting the standards of tomorrow when it comes to content creation, distribution, measurement, and (most importantly) ad formatting and delivery.
That’s a panel discussion I believe would be worth listing to.
[This article originally appeared as a two-part feature in Adotas from 7/13/2010 and 7/14/2010]
Fish Don’t Know He’s Wet
The 5 Reasons RTB is less important than you think
All the hype in the display advertising industry has been around real time bidding for the last several years, and rightly so. Finding audiences with precision (cheaply) is marketing nirvana and, with all of the startup companies willing to work their tails off to make their “platforms” work for advertisers, the promise of media, layered with great technology, and tons of free service was hard to resist. Conference after conference, our industry leadership (well, actually I think it’s just the 30-odd people that speak at every conference) prognosticates on the latest data-driven success story, and ponders the meaning of the famed Kawaja logo vomit map, hoping that their flavor of audience technology gets acquired. But, like the old George Clinton lyric goes, the fish don’t know they are wet. After drinking the RTB Kool-Aid for so long, the real time practitioners may not realize that this fundamental driver of the display advertising ecosystem may not be as important as we all think. Here are five reasons to hedge your bets with RTB:
Quality Matters: Sorry, exchanges, but inventory quality still matters—a lot. The notion that you can splash a little bit of data on top of $0.25 CPM banner inventory and turn it into $5.00 gold was never really real in the first place. The great thing about RTB isn’t the enormous amounts of data you can apply to a media buy—it’s the enormous scale and price advantage that exchange buying brings. In a CPA-driven world, the most important metric is the cost of media. Today’s bidders give advertisers the ability to scour 800+ exchange inventory sources and buy cheaply and deeply into remnant inventory like never before. But, when you look at the reporting coming back, the clicks and conversions tend to happen where quality content appears. I’ve seen it time and time again: An RTB advertiser lucks into a bit of Tier I or Tier II inventory and finds performance. Unless publishers start changing their habits and stop putting banner code on every single web page they publish, there will continue to be a dearth of quality placements available in real time, and average real-time CTRs will not eclipse their .03% average.
Cookies Don’t Scale: This is the dirty little secret of the display media industry, and something that Datran’s Aperture team is out actively pushing. Anyone who has used a DSP can tell you that even a little bit of segmentation data applied to a media buy drops impression availability by a large factor. Cookie-based targeting is enormously complicated, and getting all the gears to turn in the same direction is not easy. How many people are in the market for a BMW are there in any given 30 day period, anyway? Well, according to AppNexus, I can find about 81,689 unique users that fit that description, and access up to 1.3M impressions if I win every single bid I place. Let’s go crazy and say that I am prepared to pay $30 CPM for every single one of them (I can probably win them at $8, though). That means, this month there is the potential of $40,000 of inventory to be sold for “BMW intenders.” Add in “Connecticut” and “Men” as additional segments, and you might as well call each potential buyer on the phone, or rent a plane and drop pamphlets on their house. But wait—you could probably mail them something really nice and reach them that way. Now that sounds like a business!
Legislative Tsunami: Many fish don’t understand what “Do Not Track” and other legislation is going to do to real-time bidding. Even if you take the most conservative reckoning, you would have to admit that some sort of consumer protections need to be built into our industry. I can’t tell you how many people are fascinated—and sort of bummed out—when I introduce them to www.bluekai.com/registry Personally, I have no problem being targeted (except for the relentless onslaught of industry-specific ads I seem to be targeted with). No matter how our industry tries to spin it, the fact that I just looked at flights for North Carolina, and am being targeted by travel ads two seconds later as an “in market travel intender” makes almost everyone uncomfortable, and it’s not a winning long term strategy. We need to turn over choice to consumers, rather than convince them that we are “protecting” their data. Watch out for companies that don’t run without the fuel of 3rd party data. Conversely, bet big on companies that collect tons of 1st party (volunteered) data like Facebook…at least until the government has a problem with that too.
Premium on the Rise: Call me a Project Devil fan. With people visiting an average of 3 sites a day (one of them being Facebook), it’s kind of hard to argue with the
fact that advertising needs to be engaging on the page. Whether it’s video, over-sized RM banners, in-app ads, or sponsored apps, advertisers are looking to engage users directly, rather than drive them to a site. These opportunities are the opposite of commodity-based exchange buying. You can’t standardize them…and you can’t buy these engaging units cheaply. Advertisers are starting to rebel against the low quality of exchange-based media, and publishers are really starting to rebel against the returns they are seeing on exchanges. They want technology that helps them understand and sell their own audiences, rather than technology that disintermediates them and sells their valuable audiences for them. Maybe we finally jumped the shark with the Admeld acquisition. Wouldn’t it be nice if technology helped advertisers find the right audiences where they wanted to be found, and publishers sell their audiences for more than $0.50? Was there ever an industry that sustained itself by crushing their main suppliers down on price?
Big Guys Have More Data than You: I don’t care how many cookies you have out there on the Web. Is it 150 million? 200 million? It doesn’t really matter. How many Facebook subscribers are there? How many Google Gmail users? We have given the biggest publishers absolutely every single piece of information about ourselves (including, for some Congressmen, too much information), and shared it with our friends, and shared our friends’ data with everyone too. Where cookie-based targeting doesn’t scale, first party data targeting on sites like Facebook scales plenty. You would think the ability to reach users with such specificity would be expensive, but no. Facebook ads are the best deal in town. I have never paid more than $0.50 CPM for my audience, no matter how many “segments” I want to apply. I can’t remember winning many display media bids in for that price. If you consider that Google is just starting to get into display—and Facebook is just starting to look at display, doesn’t that make you want to change your data strategy a little bit? If your business depends on the sheer amount of your data, you may need to get a longer ruler and think about just how much scale you really have.
There are a lot of ad technology fish swimming in the RTB sea right now, and every single one of them is wet. My advice to them is to break the surface of the water for a second, and see what else is around. RTB will be a part of advertising for a long time, but it will not displace premium, guaranteed advertising. It will also look nothing like today’s RTB in a few years. The advent of private marketplaces, higher value audiences exposed in real time environments, and the emergence of smarter branding metrics (via Vizu and others) is going to turn the conversation back to premium quickly. Jump in…the water is going to be fine.
[This post appeared on 6/23/11 in AdMonsters]
Digiday:Daily Interview (Repost)
During the past year, the number of tech companies has exploded. There are some 245 logos on the (in)famous Luma Partners slide. Some of those have been acquired, but many have not and, in the eyes of several observers, are more features of products than standalone companies. In an economic downturn, with its focus on wringing efficiency, how many will be able to argue for a small slice of ad buys?
“People are all talking about the Luma slide,” said Tom Deierlein, managing director of Tagman, an ad technologies firm. “And they all want to pat themselves on the back and say, ‘Yeah, we made the Luma slide!’ If you go back to the original presentation of the slide, the point is that the industry is too cluttered. Too many people have their hands out, and there are not enough dollars to support all of the companies, and all of the tollbooths being put up. There is not enough money to support the ad ecosystem.”
Deierlein’s sentiments are echoed by analysts within and outside of the ad technology industry. The ad technology herd will “absolutely” be thinned, according to Erin Hunter, evp of media at Comscore. The proliferation of ad technology companies, some offering little or no transparency on their operations, won’t continue in an economy where brands want results, not simply assurances, according to Hunter.
“Brands want to know that there is a human on the other side of that impression,” said Hunter. She believes that advertisers will soon start to demand a system of “checks and balances” that will make ad technologies back up their product stack with verifiable results. Those firms not able to illustrate their value with transparency will eventually implode. At the end of the day, with the dizzying array of ad technologies, from DSPs to DMPs to SSPs to AMPs, there is still the question of what value each player is bringing to the table.
“When everyone has access to the same tools, there tends to be little differentiation and, consequently, value in an industry,” said Chris O’Hara, svp of marketing for Traffiq, an ad technologies firm. “Ad tech provides a highly robust example of this. Take DSPs and agency trading desks, for example. Everyone buys the same exact inventory from Google, Right Media, Microsoft, OpenX, PubMatic, Admeld and Rubicon, for example, and uses data that spring from the same sources such as IXI, Experian, Acxiom, etc. It’s extremely simple to get access to technology that enables you to leverage those things. So, what makes the companies that do real-time bidding valuable? They don’t own the inventory or the data. Many of them use the same machine-learning algorithms licensed by IPonWeb to drive optimization, and most deploy a roomful of smart account managers to help their clients manage and optimize their campaigns. As an investor, what value do you ascribe to those companies?”
And then there’s the simple fact of M&A: that there aren’t enough chairs to go around. There’s clearly the need for consolidation — Google’s vp of display advertising Neal Mohan regularly stresses this — but it’s hard to find a home for all those logos on the Luma chart.“Is there an explosion in the number of ad tech companies? Yes. Is that going to continue? No,” said venture capitalist Mark Suster in a recent Digiday interview. “In a bull market the number of startups in a category multiplies by as much as ten, and then when the markets collapse then they consolidate or shut down, and that is normal.”
The problem isn’t simply a general me-too mentality among startups, according to Deierlein. It’s that many companies bring nothing new to the table, often because they aren’t expected to. Companies are forgetting the history of the technology markets, Deierlein believes, and so many companies are simply plunging headlong into a complicated market without assessing whether or not their business model is an improvement on what is commonly offered in the “already cluttered ecosystem.”
“The clutter has come from the amount of money to be made in the ad technologies industry,” said Josh Kraft, marketing director for data analytics firm InfiniteGraph. “Eventually we will see companies being pruned, in a sense. Companies will have to back up their claims with actual client references. It requires a significant capabilities with data to compete, survive and thrive now.”
[This post appeared in DigiDay:Daily on 8/16/2011]
When Big Data Doesn’t Provide Big Insights
What big marketers should look for in a next generation data management platform
“Big Data” is all the rage right now, and for a good reason. The other day, I was switching computers, and wanted to move about five gigabytes of photos and videos unto my new laptop, and my largest thumb drive was a measly 1 gig. I ended up getting an 8GB thumb drive for about $8 at the K-Mart in Penn Station. Think about how cheap that is. That’s less than half a cent per song, if you consider the typical 8GB MP3 device can hold about 2,000 high-quality recordings. Two terabyte drives are selling for about $130 from Western Digital. I don’t know about you, but I am not at the point where I need 2TB of data storage, and I hope I never get there. The point is that storing tons and tons of data has gotten very inexpensive, while the accessibility of that data has increased substantially in parallel.
For the modern marketer, that means having access to literally dozens of disparate data sources, each of which cranks out large volumes of data every day. Collecting, understanding, and taking action against those data sets is going to make or break companies from now on. Luckily, an almost endless variety of companies have sprung up to assist agencies and advertisers with the challenge. When it comes to the largest volumes of data, however, there are some highly specific attributes you should consider when selecting a data management platform (DMP).
Collection and Storage: It’s all About Scale, Cost, and Ownership
First of all, before you can do anything with large amounts of data, you need a place to keep it. That place is increasingly becoming “the cloud” (i.e., someone else’s servers), but it can also be your own servers. If you think you have a large of data now, you will be surprised at how much it will grow. As devices like the iPad proliferate, changing the way we find content, even more data will be generated. Companies that have data solutions with the proven ability to scale at low costs will be best able to extract real value out of this data. Make sure to understand how your your DMP scales and what kinds of hardware they use for storage and retrieval.
Speaking of hardware, be on the lookout for companies that formerly sold hardware (servers) getting into the data business so they can sell you more machines. When the data is the “razor,” the servers necessarily become the “blades.” You want a data solution whose architecture enables the easy ingestion of large, new data sets, and one that takes advantage of dynamic cloud provisioning to keep ongoing costs low. Not necessarily a hardware partner.
Additionally, your platform should be able to manage extremely high volumes of data quickly, have an architecture that enables other systems to plug in seamlessly, and whose core functionality enables multi-dimensional analysis of the stored data—at a highly granular level. Your data are going to grow exponentially, so the first rule of data management is making sure that, as your data grows, your ability to query them scales as well. Look for a partner that can deliver on those core attributes, and be wary of partners that have expertise in storing limited data sets. There are a lot of former ad networks out there with a great deal of experience managing common 3rd party data sets from vendors like Nielsen, IXI, and Datalogix. When it comes to basic audience segmentation, there is a need to manage access to those streams. But, if you are planning on capturing and analyzing data that includes CRM and transactional data, social signals, and other large data sets, you should look for a DMP that has experience working with 1st party data as well as 3rd party datasets.
The concept of ownership is also becoming increasingly important in the world of audience data. While the source of data will continue to be distributed, make sure that whether you choose a hosted or a self-hosted model, your data ultimately belongs to you. This allows you to control the policies around historical storage and enables you to use the data across multiple channels.
Consolidation and Insights: Welcome to the (Second) Party
Third party data (in this context, available audience segments for online targeting and measurement) is the stuff that the famous Kawaja logo vomit map was born from. Look at the map, and you are looking at over 250 companies dedicated to using 3rd party data to define and target audiences. A growing number of platforms help marketers analyze, purchase, and deploy that data for targeting (BlueKai, eXelate, Legolas being great examples). Other networks (Lotame, Collective, Turn) have leveraged their proprietary data along with their clients to offer audience management tools that combine their data and 3rd party data to optimize campaigns. Still others (PulsePoint’s Aperture tool being a great example) leverage all kinds of 3rd party data to measure online audiences, so they can be modeled and targeted against.
The key is not having the most 3rd party data, however. Your DMP should be about marrying highly validated 1st party data, and matching it against 3rd party data for the purposes of identifying, anonymizing, and matching third party users. DMPs must be able to consolidate and create as whole of a view of your audience as possible. Your DMP solution must be able to enrich the audience information using second and third party data. Second party data is the data associated with audience outside your network (for example, an ad viewed on a publisher site or search engine). While you must choose the right set of 3rd party providers that provide the best data set about your audience, your DMP must be able to increase reach by ensuring that you can collect information about as many relevant users as possible and through lookalike modeling.
For example, if I am selling cars and I find out that my on-site users who register for a test drive are most closely matched with PRIZM’s “Country Squires” segment, it is not enough to buy the Nielsen segment. A good DMP enables you to create your own lookalike segment by leveraging that insight—and the tons of data you already have. In other words, the right DMP partner can help you leverage 3rd party data to activate your own (1st party) data.
Make sure your provider leads with management of 1st party data, has experience mining both types of data to produce the types of insights you need for your campaigns, and can get that data quickly. Data management platforms aren’t just about managing gigantic spreadsheets. They are about finding out who your customers are, and building an audience DNA that you can replicate.
Making it Work
At the end of the day, it’s not just about getting all kind of nifty insights from the data. I mean, it’s big to know that your visitors that were exposed to search and display ads converted at a 16% higher rate, or that your customers have an average of two females in the household. It’s making those insights meaningful.
So, what to look for in a data management platform in terms of actionability? For the large agency or advertiser, the basic functionality has to be creating an audience segment. In other words, when the blend of data in the platform reveals that showing 5 display ads and two SEM ads to a household with 2 women in it creates sales, the platform should be able to seamlessly produce that segment and prepare it for ingestion into a DSP or advertising platform. That means a having an extensible architecture that enables the platform to integrate easily with other systems. Moreover, your DMP should enable you to do a wide range of experimentation with your insights. Marketers often wonder what levers they should pull to create specific results (i.e., if I change my display creative, and increase the frequency cap to X for a given audience segment, how much will conversions increase)? Great DMPs can help built those attribution scenarios, and help marketers visualize results. Deploying specific optimizations in a test environment first means less waste, and more performance. Optimizing in the cloud first is going to become the new standard in marketing.
Final Thoughts
There are a lot of great data management companies out there, some better suited than others when it comes to specific needs. If you are in the market for one, and you have a lot of first party data to manage, following these three rules will lead to success:
- Go beyond 3rd party data by choosing a platform that enables you to develop deep audience profiles that leverage first and third party data insights. With ubiquitous access to 3rd party data, using your proprietary data stream for differentiation is key.
- Choose a platform that makes acting on the data easy and effective. “Shiny, sexy” reports are great, but the right DMP should help you take the beautifully presented insights in your UI, and making them work for you.
- Make sure your platform has an applications layer. DMPs must not only provide the ability to profile your segments, but also assist you with experimentation and attribution–and provide you with ability to easily perform complicated analyses (Churn, and Closed Loop being two great examples). If your platform can’t make the data dance, find another partner.
[This post was originally published in ClickZ on 11/9/11]
Signal to Noise
What Data Should Inform Media Investment Decisions?
The other day, I was updating my Spotify app on my Android device. When it finally loaded, I was asked to log in again. I immediately loaded up a new playlist that I had been building—a real deep dive into the 1980s hardcore music I loved back in my early youth. I’m not sure if you are familiar with the type of music that was happening on New York City’s lower east side between 1977 and 1986, but it was some pretty raw stuff…bands like the Beastie Boys (before they went rap), False Prophets, the Dead Boys, Minor Threat, the Bad Brains, etc. They had some very aggressive songs, with the lyrics and titles to match.
Well, I put my headphones in, and started walking from my office on 6th Avenue and 36th street across to Penn Station to catch the 6:30 train home to Long Island…all the while broadcasting every single song I was listening to on Facebook. Among the least offensive tunes that showed up within my Facebook stream was a Dead Kennedys song with the F-word featured prominently in the song title. A classic, to be sure, but probably not something all of my wife’s friends wanted to know about.
As you can imagine, my wife (online at the time), was frantically e-mailing me, trying to tell me to stop the offensive social media madness that was seemingly putting a lie to my carefully cultivated, clean, preppy, suburban image.
So why, as a digital marketer, would you care about my Spotify Facebook horror story?
Because my listening habits (and everything else you and I do online, for that matter) are considered invaluable social data “signals” that you are mining to discover my demographic profile, buying habits, shoe size, and (ultimately) what banner ad to serve me in real time. The only problem is that, although I love hardcore music, it doesn’t really define who I am, what I buy, or anything else about me. It is just a sliver of time, captured digitally, sitting alongside billions of pieces of atomic level data, captured somewhere in a massive columnar database.
Here are some other examples of data that are commonly available to marketers, and why they may not offer the insights we think they might:
– Zip Code: Generally, zip codes are considered a decent proxy for income, especially in areas like Alpine, New Jersey, which is small and exclusive. But how about Huntington, Long Island, with an average home value of $516,000? That zip code contains the village of Lloyd Harbor (average home value of $1,300,000) and waterside areas in Huntington Bay like Wincoma, where people with lots of disposable income live).
– Income: In the same vein, income is certainly important and there are a variety of reliable sources that can get close to a consumer’s income profile, but isn’t disposable income a better metric? If you earn $250,000 per year, and your expenses are $260,000, then you are not exactly Nordstrom’s choicest customer. In fact, you are what we call “broke.” Maybe that was okay back in the good old days of government-style deficit spending but, these days, luxury marketers need a sharper scalpel to separate the truly wealthy from the paper tigers.
– Self-Declared Data: We all like to put a lot of emphasis on the answers real consumers give us on surveys, but who hasn’t told a little fib from time to time? If I am “considering a new car” is my price range “$19,000 – $25,500” or “35,000 – $50,000?” This type of social desirability bias is so common that reaearchers have sought other ways of inferring income and purchase behavior. When people lie about themselves, to themselves (in private, no less) you must take a good deal of self-declared data with a hearty grain of salt.
– Automobile Ownership: Want to know how much dough a person has? Don’t bother looking at his home or zip code. Look at his car. A person who has $1,800 a month to burn on a Land Rover is probably the same person liable to blow $120 on mail order steaks, or book that Easter condo at Steamboat. Auto ownership, among other things, is a great proxy for disposable income.
It would be overly didactic to rehearse all of the possible iterations of false data signals that are being used by marketers right now to make real-time bidding decisions in digital media. There are literally thousands—and social “listening” is starting to make traditional segmentation errors look tame. Take a recent Wall Street Journal article that reported that the three most widely socially-touted television shows fared worse than those than shows which received far less social media attention.
Sorry, but maybe that hot social “meme” you are trying to connect with just isn’t that valuable as a “signal.” We all hear the fire truck going by on 7th Avenue. The problem is that the only people who turn to look at it are the tourists. So what is the savvy marketer to do?
Remember that all data signals are just that: Signals. Small pieces of a very complicated data puzzle that you must weave together to create a profile. Unless you are leveraging reliable first-party data, second-party data, and third party data, and stitching that data together, you cannot get a true view of the consumer.
In my next column, we’ll look at how stitching together disparate data sources can reveal new, more reliable, “signals” of consumer interest and intent.
[This article was originally published in ClickZ on 12/2/2011]
Know Your Audience
Using Audience Measurement Data to Optimize Digital Display Campaigns
These days, advertising and data platforms are giving marketers a wealth of information that can be used to validate their strategies, and optimize their digital campaigns for better performance. There is a lot of data to sort through—some more useful than others. Sometimes, good campaign optimization comes down to the basics: Understanding who your audience is, and why they are doing what they are doing.
Let’s look at a real life example of a digital display campaign, run through the digital ad agency of a popular mattress retailer. The agency wanted to test new inventory sources for the campaign by running broadly on general interest sites, evaluating the demography of audiences that showed purchase intent, and optimize over the course of the campaign to maximize impact.
A theory being tested was that older audiences, who report more difficulty sleeping than younger demographic groups, would respond more favorably to the retailer’s online display ads. Campaigns were initially skewed to sites that over-indexed against audience composed of 50 and older.
As Figure 1 shows, a bulk of impressions during the discovery portion of the campaign were delivered to visitors aged 46-65 years of age, which was the desired demographic. After analysis of those who viewed or clicked on a display ad, and then went on to purchase, the audience composition was remarkably different. As shown in Figure 2, the bulk of conversions came from those aged 18-45.
The agency adjusted the ad buy to heavy up on sites that over-indexed for a younger audience, and opted out of buys tailored to the older demographic. As wasted impressions were trimmed down in the overall plan, conversion rates increased dramatically. Testing and validating your instincts with data on an ongoing basis is the key to success in digital display advertising. The mattress retailer, who experienced better sales from older store visitors (offline), found a more responsive younger audience online. Although it seems obvious, having the initial data means being able to smartly allocate marketing capital, and having access to ongoing data means not having to rely on old insights in a changing marketplace.
Another offline theory the mattress retailer sought to validate was the mattress life cycle. After collecting brick and mortar sales data for years, the retailer knew that the average life of a mattress was approximately 7 years, and that the single greatest life event influencing the purchase of a new mattress was moving. Therefore, it made sense to target audiences based on length of residence (>7 years), and target content around buying or renting a new home.
Inventory was bought from a wide range of home-specific and moving sites, and measured using Aperture audience measurement populated with data sets from Experian, IXI financial, V12 demographic, and Nielsen PRIZM data.
As Figures 3 and 4 amply demonstrate, the mattress retailer was targeting the bulk of impressions towards individuals reporting over seven years residence in a single location, and clicks among that group indexed the highest in aggregate. That data validated the approach of buying into sites with a strong audience of self-reported homeowners. However, a deeper look into audience data revealed a strong distinction between renters and buyers.
As noted in Figure 5, although the bulk of impressions in the campaign were served to homeowners, renters were the ones buying the most mattresses. This learning did more than any other data point to drive campaign optimization.
Naturally, the next step in the campaign optimization process was to focus inventory delivery to sites that promised a concentrated audience of home renters. Sites such as ForRent.com, ApartmentGuide.com, and Renters.com were added to the optimization plan.
More insights came as the Aperture data was collected. Despite purporting to have a heavy concentration of renters, two of the more popular sites actually index much higher among homeowners, as shown in Figure 6. It looked as though homeowners that were looking into renting made up the majority audience—a fact that helped the retailer tailor specific messaging to them.
Figure 6: In this example, a media site aimed at renters, over-indexes against current homeowners.
For this particular campaign, the ability for the retailer to validate certain audience assumptions using real demographic data was critical, as well as the ability to leverage the distinction between two types of potential customers: home owners, and renters. Additionally, getting real audience metrics beyond a publisher’s media kit or self-declared audience information enabled the retailer to craft its creative and messaging in a highly specific way that increased conversions.
When it comes to audience validation and campaign optimization, here are three keys:
- Know Your Data: In today’s technology-driven marketing world, knowing how to leverage the data available to you is critical to both understanding and targeting your audience. Make sure your marketing investment decisions are driven through the analysis and usage of 1st party data, including registration data for demographic modeling; 2nd party data, such as ad server and search data for behavioral modeling; and 3rd party data, such as available audience segments from providers like Nielsen and Datalogix, for audience validation, matching, and lookalike modeling. Data is not just about buying audience segments for targeting; it’s about trying to get a 360-degree view of your ideal customer.
- Choose the Right DMP: There are DMPs for every marketer, so be careful to choose the right one. Big Data needs call for pure play DMPs that can stitch together highly disparate data sets that include all data types, and make both insights, audience segments, and lookalike modeling available in real-time. Marketers looking to buy from a variety of 3rd party audience segment providers should choose a data marketplace such as Exelate, or be willing to access a more limited number of data sources inside a DSP such as AppNexus.
- Leverage Audience Measurement: Finally, there is a lot that audience segments can bring to the table in terms of audience insights. Understanding the audience composition of who saw, clicked on, and converted after seeing your campaign gives you the ability to learn about your target customers, their online behaviors, and (most importantly) find more of them. Your DMP should have the ability to marry audience and campaign data to give you a highly granular level view of your best (and worst) performing audience types—down to the creative level.
Learnings from this case study, and other valuable information, can be found in my upcoming “Best Practices in Digital Display Media,” coming in January 2012 from eConsultancy.com.
[This article originally appeared in ClickZ on 1/4/2012]
The Data Driven Agency
Three ways you can supercharge your digital media agency with data
Today’s digital media agency has access to enormous amounts of data, but using it effectively is what is going to make the difference between the shops of the future and the also-rans. Delivering data-driven insights is the key to being a 21st century agency. Here are three ways you should be working with data to secure your future:
Visualize it
How much time are you and your colleagues spending collating data, building reports, and formatting spreadsheets and PowerPoint decks for your clients? Most of the agencies I have worked with over the years admit to dedicating an embarrassingly large amount of (highly expensive) time towards these menial tasks. It’s not that getting your clients the data they need is not worth the time, it’s simply that there are now so many automated ways to deliver the data without burning salary.
To paraphrase former agency head and Akamai leader David Kenny, if you are doing things with people that you can be doing with computers, you have already lost. Why spend time formatting Excel spreadsheets and populating PowerPoint report templates with data, when you can be spending salaried employee time selling more services, optimizing campaigns, and delivering great strategy and creative? Today’s automated ad management solutions and DMPs offer powerful ways to port both audience and ad serving reporting data into a single interface, to get instant access to key metrics such as frequency to conversion, churn rate, and channel attribution.
Ask yourself if the cost of such a system is more than the cost of the time your employees you have been spending building reports—and, ultimately, more than the cost of your eventual demise, should you ignore the changes afoot in your business.
Aggregate and Activate it
Think of all the data you have access to from a digital media standpoint. If you are helping clients execute a digital media campaign, you have traditional serving data from your demand side server, such as DFA. You probably also have engagement data from your rich media ad server. If you have access to your clients’ website pages (or at least tags there), you have site-side data, including conversion event data. If you are using an audience measurement tool, or are doing audience-specific buying through a demand side platform, you also have audience measurement data. Great. What are you doing with all of it? Moreover, what kind of data does your client have that you can help them add to activate the common advertising data types I have just described?
Let’s take the example of an agency using an audience measurement reporting tool, alongside an ad server report. In this case, it is possible that the analyst knows that the highest frequency converters for his travel campaign belong to a popular PRIZM segment, and he may also know that visitors to a popular travel site are three times as likely to engage with his rich media ad creative. Now what? Obviously, the right move is to buy more of the audience segment and double up with guaranteed advertising on the travel site. But what about audience overlap?
How can the advertiser reduce ad waste by ensuring that members of his audience segment that he is securing for as little as $2.00 CPM on exchanges are not overrepresented on the premium site for which he is paying $18.00 CPM? Plus, how many members of that audience are also already registered as customers? If you are not deploying a DMP to aggregate your clients’ CRM (first-party) data alongside the site-side and ad serving (2nd party) data and the purchased (3rd party) data segments, then there is going to lots of duplicated uniques in your audience. Smart data aggregation creates ad activation through waste reduction, lifting conversion rates, while lowering cost per conversion. Getting an effective universal frequency cap across digital channels is very difficult, but every dollar not wasted on duplicate impressions is another dollar that may be spent finding a new audience member. Reducing waste adds reach—and performance, which every client likes.
Compare it
As a digital media agency, you’ve run hundreds, perhaps even thousands of campaigns, producing thousands of data-rich reports for your clients. How much of that knowledge are you leveraging? Although you might know the top travel sites and audience segments to reach “moms of school-age children in-market for a beach vacation,” how readily available is that knowledge? Is it sitting inside your Media Director’s head, or hidden in various documents that don’t talk to one another? How about access to normative campaign data? How quickly can you find out how certain sites performed against similar KPIs without doing hours of research?
Like or not, advertisers want to know how their campaigns are performing against known standards, and it’s gotten a lot more complicated than beating a 0.1% click-through rate lately. Knowing how your last 10 travel campaigns performed—from which guaranteed site buys succeeded, to which audience segments performed, to which creatives elicited the highest CTR—is just step one. Having that data available for quick reference means that every new campaign can start from an advanced performance level, and your media people don’t have to recreate the wheel every time you receive an RFP.
Today’s smart DMPs also feature the ability to leverage your data to an even greater extent, especially for audience buying. Why limit yourself to pre-packaged audience segments that do not include your client’s first-party data? Today’s more advanced DMPs give marketers the ability to create audience segments on the fly, building discrete segments from data that includes available third-party data—but also first-party data, such as registration details, transactional records, and signals from hosted social media listening solutions. It’s the difference between buying from an ad network and creating your own.
Summary
Buying into portals’ site sections was the first phase in the effort to bring contextual and audience relevance to ad buying. Networks followed, offering packaged audiences at scale. Then bidded exchange buying came, offering pre-packaged audience segments at the individual cookie level. Today’s best practices include marrying all available data types to give marketers the ability to create their own targeted buys, and modern data management platforms are helping the largest advertisers automate what they have been doing since the first direct mail piece went out: finding targeted audiences. Leveraging today’s DMP technology can not only help you find those audiences more easily, but help you understand who they are, why they respond, and help you find them again.
Chris O’Hara is head of strategic partnerships for nPario, a DMP with clients that include Yahoo! and Electronic Arts, among others. A frequent contributor to industry publications, this is his first column for The Agency Post. He can be reached through his blog on www.chrisohara.com
[This article originally appeared in The Agency Post on 1/25/12]
The Five Things to Expect in a DMP
“We want to make sure that we’re controlling what happens with data . . . we want to make sure we control pricing. Control’s a very important message. We don’t want there to be a cottage industry built on our backs” – Nick Johnson, SVP, NBC Universal
What do publishers really want? It’s simple, really: Power and control. In order to survive the ad technology era, publishers need the power to monetize their audiences without relying on third parties, and complete control over how they sell their inventory. In this era of “Big Data,” there is a fire hose stream of tremendously valuable information for publishers to take advantage of, such as keyword-based search data, attitudinal survey data, customer declared data from forms, page-level semantic data, and all the 3rd party audience data you can shake a stick at.
All of this data (cheap to produce, and ever-cheaper to store) has given rise to companies who can help publishers bring that data together, make sense of it, and use it to their advantage. Currently, ad technology companies have been using the era of data to their advantage, utilizing it to create vertical ad networks, ad exchanges, data exchanges, DSPs, and a variety of other smart-sounding acronyms that ultimately purport to help publishers monetize their audiences, but end up monetizing themselves.
Rather than power the ad tech ecosystem, what if data could actually help publishers take back their audiences? If “data is the new gold” as the pundits are saying, then smart publishers should mine it to increase margins, and take control of their audiences back from networks and exchanges. Here are the five things a good data management platform should enable them to do:
- Unlock the Value of 1st Party Data: Publishers collect a ton of great data, but a lot of them (and a LOT of big publishers) don’t leverage it like they should. Consider this recent stat: according to a recent MediaPost article, news sites only use in-site audience targeting on 47% of their impressions, as opposed to almost 70% for Yahoo News. By leveraging site-side behavioral data, combined with CRM data and other sources, it is possible to layer targeting on almost every impression a publisher has. Why serve a “blind” run-of-site (ROS) ad, when you can charge a premium CPM for audience-targeted inventory?
- Decrease Reliance on 3rd Parties: The real reason to leverage a DMP is to get your organization off the 3rd party crack pipe. Yes, the networks and SSPs are a great “plug and play” solution (and can help monetize some “undiscoverable” impressions), but why are publishers selling raw inventory at $0.35 and letting the people with the data resell those impressions for $3.50? It’s time to turn away those monthly checks, and start writing some to data management companies that can help you layer your own data on top of your impressions, and charge (and keep) the $3.50 yourself. Today’s solutions don’t have to rely on pre-packaged 3rd party segments to work, either, meaning you can really reduce your data costs. With the right data infrastructure, and today’s smart algorithm-derived models, a small amount of seed data can be utilized to create discrete, marketable audience segments that publishers can own, rather than license.
- Generate Unique Audience Insights: Every publisher reports on clicks and impressions, but what advertisers are hungry for (especially brand advertisers) are audience details. What segments are most likely to engage with certain ad content? Which segments convert after seeing the least amount of impressions? More importantly, how do people feel about an ad campaign, and who are they exactly? Data management technology is able to meld audience and campaign performance data to provide unique insights in near real-time, without having to write complicated database queries and wait long times for results. Additionally, with the cost of storing data getting lower all the time, “lookback windows” are increasing, enabling publishers to give credit for conversion path activity going back several months. Before publishers embraced data management, all the insights were in the hands of the agency, who leveraged the data to their own advantage. Now, publishers can start to leverage truly powerful data points to create differentiated insights for clients directly, and provide consultative services with them, or offer them as a value-added benefit.
- Create New Sales Channels: Before publisher-side data management, when a publisher ran out of the Travel section impressions, he had to turn away the next airline or hotel advertiser, or offer them cheap ROS inventory. Now, data management technology can enable sales and ops personnel to mine their audience in real time and find “travel intenders” across their property—and extend that type of audience through lookalike modeling, ensuring additional audience reach. By enabling publishers to build custom audience segments for marketers on the fly, a DMP solution ensures that no RFP will go unanswered, and ROS inventory gets monetized at premium prices.
- Create Efficiency: How many account managers does it take to generate your weekly ad activity reports? How much highly paid account management time are publishers burning by manually putting together performance reports? Why not provide an application that advertisers can log into, set report parameters, and export reports into a friendly format? Or, better yet, a system that pre-populates frequent reports into a user interface, and pushes them out to clients via an e-mail link? You would think this technology was ubiquitous today, but you would be wrong. Ninety-nine percent of publishers still do this the hard (expensive) way, and they don’t have to anymore.
It’s time for publishers to dig into their data, and start mining it like the valuable commodity it is. Data used to be the handcuffs which kept publishers chained to the ad technology ecosystem, where they grew and hosted a cottage industry of ad tech remoras. The future that is being written now is one of publishers’ leveraging ad technologies to take back control, so they can understand and manage their own data and have the freedom to sell their inventory for what it is truly worth.
That’s a future worth fighting for.
[This post originally appeared in ClickZ on 2/29/12]
Irish Coffee
Although I’m sure that many a dash of whiskey has made it into a coffee mug over the centuries, it wasn’t until the 1940s that Irish coffee was officially invented. The most interesting story of the drink’s origin claims it dates back to Ireland’s Shannon Airport in the early years of transatlantic air travel. It seems the drink was concocted by one Joe Sheridan to soothe shaken passengers who’d flown through hard storms in their “flying boats.” Sipping the smooth elixir, one passenger supposedly asked if he was drinking Brazilian coffee. To which Mr. Sheridan indignantly replied, “No, that’s Irish coffee!”
Ingredients:
6 ounces Irish whiskey
30 ounces freshly brewed coffee
1⁄4 cup sugar
1 cup heavy cream, chilled
1 tablespoon confectioners’ sugar
Combine 1 ounce whiskey, 5 ounces coffee, and 2 teaspoons sugar in a mug (ideally a clear glass one). In a medium bowl, whip the cream with the confectioners’ sugar until it’s slightly thickened. Using the back of a spoon, carefully slip the whipped cream into the mug, so that it rests on top of the coffee without dissolving into it.
Serves 6
Tom & Jerry
The Tom & Jerry is eggnog’s warm and creamy cousin, with the added kick of rum and spices. There is some disagreement as to the origin of the drink. Some claim that it was named after the two principal characters in Pierce Egan’s popular 1821 book, Life in London, Jerry Hawthorn and his sidekick Corinthian Tom. Other cocktail etymologists speculate that the concoction was named after notorious mixologist Jerry Thomas, a bartender at San Francisco’s Occidental Hotel and the creator of the Martinez (the first martini, according to some). What’s not disputed is that the Tom & Jerry offers a delicious alternative to traditional eggnog.
Ingredients:
3 quarts whole milk
24 large eggs (see page 29)
2 cups sugar
Pinch of salt
1⁄2 tablespoon ground allspice
2 tablespoons ground cinnamon
1⁄2 tablespoon ground cloves
16 ounces brandy
16 ounces dark rum
Freshly ground nutmeg, for garnish
In a large saucepan, heat the milk over low heat until steaming; cover and keep warm. Separate the eggs into two large bowls, one for the yolks and another for the whites. Add the sugar to the yolks and beat with a wire whisk for about 3 minutes, or until the mixture is thick and lemon-colored.Using a wire whisk or an electric hand mixer, beat the egg whites with the pinch of salt until they form soft peaks; set aside.
Add the spices, brandy, and rum to the yolk mixture. Stirring continuously, mix in the warm milk. Carefully fold the reserved whites into the batter. Pour into individual glasses and garnish each with a pinch of nutmeg.
Serves 24
Hot Buttered Rum
Here’s a concoction you won’t see many vascular surgeons imbibing anytime soon; drinking butter is generally contraindicated. But the small amount of butter in the classic hot buttered rum won’t hurt you. Basic hot buttered rum is made by simply adding rum to hot spiced cider, and serving it with a pat of butter on top. This recipe, which uses spiced vanilla ice cream as its base, makes for a smoother, creamier version.
Serves 12
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter
23⁄4 cups packed light brown sugar
1 quart vanilla ice cream, softened
1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
12 ounces dark rum
In a large bowl, combine all the ingredients except the rum, mixing thoroughly with a rubber spatula. Place the mixture into a plastic container with a lid; seal and freeze.
To prepare the drinks, place 2 heaping tablespoons of the frozen batter in each mug, add 1 ounce of rum and 3⁄4 cup of boiling water. Stir until the batter is completely melted. For a nonalcoholic version, simply omit the rum.
Glögg
Scandinavian aquavit, literally “water of life,” has not made a tremendous impact on the rest of the world. Maybe it’s because of the unusual caraway-seed taste. In the case of glögg, however, aquavit’s unique flavor so perfectly complements the heated wine that it’s like drinking Christmas itself. The best thing about making glögg the old-fashioned way is the theater involved in preparing it, so be sure to invite your guests into the kitchen to watch the pyrotechnics. You’ll need a fine-mesh wire rack, which you should be able to find at any kitchenware store, to flame the glögg.
Serves 12 to 15
Two 750 ml bottles full-bodied dry red wine
20 cloves
20 cardamom seeds
1⁄2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
8 ounces sugar cubes
One 750 ml bottle aquavit
1⁄2 cup raisins, for garnish
1⁄2 cup sliced almonds, for garnish
In a large pot, combine the wine, cloves, cardamom, cinnamon, and nutmeg, and heat over a medium flame until steam rises from the surface and the spices are infused, about 7 minutes. Strain, then transfer about half the mixture to a large bowl.
Place a fine-mesh wire rack over the pot, and arrange the sugar cubes on top. Pour the aquavit over the cubes, making sure to soak them well. Standing back, use a long kitchen match to carefully ignite the sugar cubes, then slowly ladle the reserved wine over them until they have dissolved.
Serve in mugs, garnished with raisins and sliced almonds.
Thai Wings
The secret to making authentic Thai wings is the overnight galangal and chile marinade. Used in Thai cooking, galangal is similar to ginger, and the key spice in many Thai coconut milk-based soups. Here, galangal is combined with turmeric (another close cousin to ginger), coconut milk, garlic, and hot chiles to create wings that have that authentic, spicy Thai flavor. Cool them off with a classic Thai peanut dipping sauce. Galangal can be difficult to find, but don’t worry. Simply substitute 1/2 teaspoon of freshly grated ginger for the ground galangal, and your guests will never know.
Ingredients
For the Thai peanut sauce
1/2 cup unsalted roasted peanuts
1 tablespoon peanut oil, plus more to taste
2 fresh Thai chiles or other small chiles
1 1/2-inch-thick slice fresh ginger
4 garlic cloves
1/3 cup canned unsweetened coconut milk
2 teaspoons low-sodium soy sauce
4 teaspoons fish sauce
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
Pinch of salt (add to taste, as fish sauce can be very salty)
1/2 cup finely minced cilantro leaves and stems
For the marinade
2 cups coconut milk
1 medium onion, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons crushed garlic
2 teaspoons ground turmeric
2 teaspoons red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon ground galangal (or 1/2 teaspoon freshly grated ginger)
1 tablespoon kosher salt
20 chicken wings, jointed
Serves 4
Directions
Make the Thai peanut sauce
1. To make the peanut sauce, add the peanuts along with the peanut oil to a food processor. Blend, on high, until the peanuts form a rough paste. Add the rest of the ingredients except for the cilantro; blend until smooth. Stir in the cilantro and thin with peanut oil to taste.
Make the wings
1. To make the marinade, using a food processor, grind the ingredients into a paste the consistency of thin yogurt. Reserve a small amount for basting and transfer the remaining marinade to a glass bowl. Add the cleaned and trimmed chicken wings. Toss liberally, cover with plastic wrap, and marinate in the refrigerator overnight.
2. To grill the wings, shake off the excess marinade and grill the wings over medium heat for approximately 5 minutes per side, or until crispy. Brush them frequently with the reserved marinade, and be careful not to burn the wing tips. The wings should have a crispy texture with a deep mahogany color when done. Serve with the Thai Peanut Sauce.
Recipe © 2004 Christopher B. O’Hara. All rights reserved.
Jalapeño Dipping Sauce
Perhaps the most popular chile pepper in the world, the jalapeño is a natural for wing sauces. As hot as these stubby green chile peppers may seem, among the hardcore chile pepper fanatics they hardly even rate on the heat scale—rating a “meager” 2,500 to 5,000 Scoville heat units, compared to upwards of 200,000 for habanero peppers! When dried and smoked, jalapeños become chipotle peppers—another spicy but not too intense ingredient often used in salsas. Here’s a simple honey mustard dressing with a spicy jalapeño kick that goes great with any kind of wings.
Yields about 3⁄4 cup
In a small saucepan, heat the vinegar. Once warm, add the mustard, honey, and jalapeño. Boil for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and serve.
Ingredients:
1⁄2 cup red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons mustard
1 tablespoon honey
1 jalapeño pepper, halved lengthwise











































